We sail away from Mumbai, the rippling water quelling the chaos of the city into a subdued yawn. Just one hour off-shore is Elephanta Island, home to hungry monkeys, street stalls, and temples carved into the stone caves. Amidst the forst of underground columns like a dwarven citadel, I halt at the statue of the three-headed Shiva; creator, preserver, and destroyer; whose close-eyed serenity envelops me.
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